Friday, October 17, 2008

Morocco: Agadir - the final frontier

As I enter the outskirts of the City of Agadir I'm not prepared for what I encounter. The country roads have given way to city networks. Road signs indicate where the city centre is and as I work my way along the road the traffic volume has increased with cars, trucks, buses and mopeds zooming by. I'm very uncertain as to where I am and I continue on this road. I'm very aware that this is obviously one of many arterial roads that leads into and past the city. Up ahead I see a fellow cyclist on the road and I speed up so as to get directions from him to the city centre. We exchange greetings as its good to see a fellow cyclist on the road. Mohamed introduces himself in fairly good English and insists he will accompany me into the city. We proceed and during our journey he enquires whether I would accompany him home to have some mint tea. I discover that apart from being an ardent cyclist he also enjoys running, swimming and hiking. I tell him about my journey and he is quite amazed by my achievement.

He extends his hospitality and insists I should take a shower after such a long trip and he would be honoured if I could stay for lunch as his family would be home pretty soon. He is preparing lamb tangine and looks very handy in the kitchen.

I get to meet his entire family as they arrive from school. Malika(mom) Younes, Issam and Nabil. We sit down and all have lunch together. The boys are very curious. After 14h00 the boys leave for the second part of the school day and will only be back home after18h00. Kids have long school hours in Morocco.

After the activity has died down I enquire from Mohamed when would it be convenient for him to show me some direction into the city. He looks at me and says: "Whats your hurry relax you will be staying the night". I'm caught off guard and do not for one minute expect this overwhelming gesture of hospitality. The Kouzkouz family "adopts" me. I now live in the suburb of Salem about 15 to 20 minutes away from the city centre. The most amazing thing about the suburbs in Agadir is that it is self-contained. Its has all the requirements a suburb needs and people very seldom see the need to head off to the city except for work. The University of Agadir is also quite central and has campuses all over the city.

The beaches are beautiful and stretches for as far as the eye can see. It is only touristy in the centre and in the peek of summer when there are regular flight to Agadir from Europe.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Morocco: Taroudannt Day 2

The city is surrounded by a massive red clay brick wall which was typical of the Berber towns' fortification against invasion. The only access into this city is through five huge entrance ways with a maze of roads and alleyways snaking through this town with markets in the south souks close to the town square and a tannery in the west of the town and in the the north the Kasbah.

Its the only city thus far I have encountered where bicycles are a common site. People crisscrossing the city on bicycle going to work and students going to schools.

The hotel whereI stay, Hotel Taroudant, is one of a few hotels dotted around the square with good prices. Unfortunately good fairly cheap accommodation comes with its own unique situations . My Hotel is extremely noisy and residents are not protected by the noise emanating from the bar bellow the hotel with its adjoining courtyard.

There is no time restraints of hours of operation that the bar has to adhere to so the drunken noises will continue until early hours of the morning.

Solution: have earplugs if you choose to stay or find another hotel with a quieter surrounding......

Morocco: Taroudannt to Agadir

It's before 5h00 in the morning and already the noise level has picked up. By the time iI leave my hotel the square is filled with people, mainly women. I discover that farmers looking for crop pickers collect their labour on the square . One more stop at the corner store to pick up some bread before I head out of the the city. I exit through the Bab Taghourt gate and head out of the walled city of Taroudannt for my final destination of Agadir.

As I head to Agadir 85km away, the main activity is olive farming and the manufacture of olive oil and Argon oil. I stop along the way to watch the process of olives being crushed by huge rollers and compressed to see the oil extraction. My presence alerts the owner of this very road side plant to invite me in and see more closely what is happening. Not a single soul in this establishment speaks a word of English, however, I get invited to sit down have some mint tea accompanied by a soft bread and fresh olive oil. The custom being that your host breaks bread and hands it to you and we proceed to eat and share a small meal. This is not my first encounter with Moroccan hospitality. Sharing of food does not require a language but more of an understanding of what it represents.
They are also curious about me and I explain that I am from South Africa (Afrik Du Sud) and they lighten up with sheer delight and one blurts out football Mondial and I say yes......
After handshakes and Shoukrans they bid me well on my journey and I'm back on the road again.
For the next 30km the Argans have taken grip of the dry landscape. I also encounter a strange site along the way goats .....goats in the Argan trees - a very very strange site. I did read about this on my search for information about Argan oil manufacturing. Goats also play a good part in the manufacturing process as they chew the hard outer core of the Argon fruit. The hard outer shell contains the argon nut that passes through the goats digestive system and gets excreated. The excrement is collected, broken up and the precious nut retrieved. Sounds like a shitty job. The best argon oil is produced from this.

I make good time on my way to Agadir as the roads are in very good condition into the city.

Monday, October 13, 2008

Morocco: Aoulouz to Tarodannt

Aoulouz on a Saturday night is a bee hive of activity and all the cafes are packed to capacity with people and family's interacting with each other. I have discovered that Moroccans in general do most of their networking and connecting with each other at night and its such a wonderful experience to see such social activity. Saturday nights, like the one I have experienced, are also about the wonderful game of soccer. One cannot help oneself to be drawn in by this craziness and I hang out like everyone. The cafes make money this way. As long as you buy, you can watch.....

The soccer noise continues through the night and in the distance I can hear the highs and lows of people cheering and disapproving as their local team goes through its paces and a goal is scored... the noise punctures the air as it reverberates.

The following morning I leave my hotel and get sent on my way with the greeting Inshala, God be with you.

The first 10km is rolling hills and the landscape is dotted with Argon trees. You can see some are as old as time gone by. The road flattens and the Argons are pushed to the distant hills and the surrounding area is filled with citrus orchards for as far as the eye can see.

In between the orchards are trees(argons) which have refused to be displaced this continues for the next 40km.

As one approaches the outskirts of Tarodannt one encounters heavy and light industry and the further one progresses, the settlements of houses and schools and government building make their appearance and before long the old ramparts (walls) of the city appear and I enter through one of the entrances, Bab El Kasbah. Orientation done and directions indicated, I find the central square and the Hotel Tarodannt.

Its Sunday so I waste no time. I start to explore the souks and already the deal making starts.

I will spend two days here before I leave for my next destination, Agadir.

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Taliouine to Aoulouz

Although there are threats of rain, by the time I get to the town of Taliouine, it starts to rain just briefly. I get to a Hotel and the proprietor cannot speak a word of English. So the international language of hand signs, pen and paper do the negotiating. But before I can go any further he hauls me down to the neighbouring shop Taliouine Nature and I get to meet the shop owner, Abdellah, who to my amazement speaks very good English. Negotiation done I settle in.

Abdellah Akerdoud turns out to be a very interesting person and we get to chat. I take him to have some mint tea which has its own ritual of pouring out and throwing in until it ends up in a sweet syrup. I find out that he studied English at the University of Agadir. This university is the only one in the south, south of the Atlas Mountains that is. His shop sells a range of Berber products as well as saffron and Argon oil. Incidentally he employs four people to produce the Argon oil.
The next morning I'm greeted by rain and stay in bed contemplating to stay or leave. Just before eight I leave the hotel. It's still drizzling but I decide to make a run for it. I have only 34km today and it should not take me long. The road to Aoulouz is good and I have a minor pass to climb today which is 1030m high. The landscape and the valleys are dotted with Argon trees which grow wild.

Not long to go and Aoulous appears. Its a bustling little town and is situated on the N10. This road continues to the turn off to Marrakesh via the Tizi-n-Test.

Friday, October 10, 2008

Morocco: Tazenakht to Taliouine

The hotel Cafe Taghadute turns out to be quite a pleasant place. The hotel proprietor is very attentive and the meals cheap. I sleep well after my long day. The next morning I leave at 5h45 and head for the next town of Talioune. The deviation out of town is on a dusty piste (track) which leads me onto the outskirts of the town making the going even slower. Once back on the road a new discovery. It is undergoing maintenance along another 7km of the road! The morning is very crisp and cold as I struggle to maintain a good riding pace. The road ahead looks good and for the next 23km the road is fairly flat before the first of the passes appears in the distance. The Tizi Ikhsane is 1650m high. It is still early and the higher I go, the colder it becomes. Once on the escarpment I leave the boring dried, barren landscape behind and ahead lies the lush green fields of olive grooves. The escarpment is fairly undulating and the climbs are long and steep in certain places. The second of the passes ,Tizi Zbein and in quick succession, Tizi-n-Taghatine 1886m high appears and one starts to climb, climb. There seems to be no end in sight and it continues one crest after the other until finally 15km outside the town of Talioune which one can see in the distance is situated in the valley below. One descends the escarpment plunging down at break neck speed and you arrive in town wind swept.

Talioune I discover is the saffron capital of Morocco. The harvest period is at the end of November and it is literally as good as gold they tell me. Apart from saffron production the other notable of this region is the harvesting of the world famous Argon oil. The trees grows abundantly in the rich mountain soil and the species is protected as it is only found in this region.

Argon oil is exceptionally rich in natural tocopherols (vitamin E), rich in phenols and phenolic acid, rich in carotenes, rich in squalene, rich in essential fatty acids, 80% unsaturated fatty acids[3] and depending on extraction method more resistant to oxidation than olive oil.
Argan oil is used for dipping bread, on
couscous, salads and similar uses. The residue from traditional oil extraction is a thick chocolate-coloured paste called "amlou" which is sweetened and served as a dip for bread at breakfast time. It flavour is similar to that of peanut butter.
The unroasted oil is traditionally used as a treatment for skin diseases, and has found favour with the
cosmetics industry. info from:wikipedia.org/wiki/Argan_oil

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Agdz to Tazenakht

After my rest in Agdz, I left my hotel at 6h00. Ahead lay Tazenakht. Just as you leave the town the road is good with a slight incline and for the very first time I get the wind. Its a cross wind, gentle at first and and then strong. It is very difficult to keep my bicycle upright. For the very first time I'm struggling against the wind. My average speed is reduced to 11km/h. Ahead I have the first of two passes. To get over the pass at 1395m high is a bit of a tough climb as the wind compounds the situation. After the first pass I have 45km to Tazenakht. The road is a real shocker. At first it looks like a service road made up a bit of tar and gravel. This is a really isolated section of the R108, not popular with tourists as it used to be a piste(trail or track) before. The mining town of Bou-azzer appears and the main vehicular activity is trucks. I continue and before long the dreaded second pass appears. One can see it in the far distance as it worms it way up the mountain. The road has improved but is still narrow and I'm competing for space with trucks. As the second pass takes its grip, the average temp is around 37 deg and I'm sweating bullets . The Tizi Taguergoust is 1640m high and the wind is still gusting in places. Once over the pass I have 10km to go to the town of Tazenakht.

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Tazzarine to Agdz

Tazzarine is a smallish dusty town siting on the outskirts of the Hamada. It's significance, apart from the N12 running through it, is that it is also the gateway to Zagora which is the other town renowned for it's desert connection.
I leave my hotel a little late slightly peeved because the proprietor has locked up the bikes and I have to look for him. I have a long day ahead of me and want to be on the road. Ahead lies Agdz (pronounced agaa dez). Firstly I have to get to N'kob which is 30km away. The going is a bit slow as the road is in a bad condition and there is a gentle incline to the town of N'kob which sits higher than Tazzarine. Once past the town it is downhill into the valley and the roller coaster ride takes me to the intersection between Zagora to the one side and Quarzazate the other, another 40km away.
There is a huge landscape change from desert to shrubs and grasses. Once back onto the N9 the road snakes along the mountain with the river and the valley below filled with palms. Another 31km to go and the town of Agdz appears. As I work my way up the hill, the roads lead me into the main square, the hub of business.
First port of call, the cafe Sable D'Or and I have something cold to drink, sit back and enjoy the shade, sights and sounds and not forgetting my constant companions, the flies.
It's just after one in the afternoon and everyone is heading to the mosque for afternoon prayers. Shops close and all other businesses. I have to wait before I get to my hotel, the Palmareis. It's situated upstairs and the entrance is on the side of the building in and alleyway just in front of a general dealer store. The rooms are clean, not dusty as most are, and if you want one with a window, it costs a little more.
I spend another night in Agdz so today is my second and tomorrow I head for Tazenakht.

Monday, October 6, 2008

Alnif to Tazzarine

After the over priced supper, my new acquaintances and I continue to chat. It's after ten and we all decide to turn in making arrangements to meet the next day again in the town of Tazzarine.
Isabelle and Christian prefer to leave early in the morning as their recumbents have to haul quite a lot of equipment. They plan to stay much longer in Morocco than I do. By the following morning I'm on my way and I have a very short distance to cover, only 65km. The morning is a little crisp and the road is in a good condition even though it is a secondary road.
On my way I meet another couple who are also touring and they are on their way to Alnif. The Dutch couple, Christine and Gerrit are using a tandem with a bob(pull along cart attached to the bike). We spend some chatting before the question arises where are you from? "We live in, wait for it .....Apeldoorn !What are the chances that I would meet a Dutch couple cycling in Morocco who happen to live in the same place as my dear friends Ineke and Rene ! We say our goodbyes and best wishes exchange emails.

Ten km more to go and Tazzarine appears it's only 10h30. I find a hotel easily, the only one and I settle in for day.

Sunday, October 5, 2008

Erfoud to Alnif

After the hectic day over the Hamada( is a type of desert landscape consisting of largely barren, hard, rocky plateaus, with very little sand) and riding around I find a hotel which was recommended by a person at a previous over priced hotel. Chez Gaby Hotel is located at the intersection left going to the town of Erfoud and left going to Rissani. Abdoul, who runs the establishment, gives me a good price, Berber price as he puts it. He is happy that I am happy. My room comes with air conditioning, something new, and dalmatian bed covers. I simply love it. His hospitality holds no boundaries. I also get to use the Internet at the hotel - most kind of him.

The following morning I rise early as once more I have a long road ahead: 24km to Rissani and another 93km to Alnif. It had rained the night before and the ground is still damp permeating the area with the sweet smell of soil.

I have one pass to cover and now I have the wind and the sun behind. Wonderful, however, it comes with its own set of problems heat and more heat. So the cooling factor is the problem now. I have to take more water on board which means more stops.

Five hours later I arrive in Alnif. There are only two hotels: one for tourist types in the 4x4 entourage and of course the other. To my surprise I meet two other cyclist who are also touring Morocco. They are Swiss and I have a wonderful time chatting to them . We relate stories and events.

Saturday, October 4, 2008

Tinejdad to Erfoud

I spent an interesting afternoon at the internet cafe which eventually ended up with two young men escorting me to areas of Tinejdad no tourist would have acces to providing he was some kind of archaeologist. My young guides embarked on showing me some ruins of an old Kibash. They tell me their grandfather was involved in building and living in this settlement which today is still partly lived in. They take me to an old Mosque in this huge building complex which the community still uses. Included in this is an old Hamam. This is very fascinating for me and very overwhelming. With an interesting evening under my belt, I go back to my hotel and have some coffee at the hotel restaurant.

The next morning I leave my hotel with a traditional greeting of my host who hands me some dates for my journey out of the dusty town of Tinejdad. The day ahead is going to be a long one I have to cover 94km. Once outside the town of Tinejdad the plains open up one more time; I am heading closer and closer to the desert.

The towns or oases along my route are mainly agriculture based societies. My journey continues and before long Erfoud appears: the gateway to the desert.

Friday, October 3, 2008

Tinehir - Todra Gorge - Tinjdad

The Hotel Timboctou is a Kasbah (palaces and castles built in the Old Quarters of an Arabic city in North Africa) built in 1944 by a rich landlord in the area of Tinehir. Although it conforms to shape and size it is still seen as a new type Kasbah. It was converted into a hotel and today you can experience Kasbah style living - not what I was looking for. For 160dhs (1 Moroccan Dirham is approx. equal to 1 ZAR). I was also getting breakfast. The meals are hellishly over priced. My pizza offered me far more than I bargained for - the shits. I have it under control now.

My morning is a bit rushed with breakfast and all. At the first intersection I take a short left. Ha!ha!ha, on second thoughts I should have gone right. Too late and I'm quickening my breath as I start to climb the hill that Lonely Planet (LP) did not tell me about. I have 15km to go (to the Gorge) and I hope it's not going to be all uphill. The valley below is amazing, palms and cultivated areas in between. My journey continues like a roller coaster ride then down and I cross the river and head back up cursing the gorge appearing closer and closer. The side walls of the valley getting closer and closer together as the valley floor drops. The sides get higher and higher and the houses closer and closer to the road.There are lots of places to stay and the tourist boom comes into full at every corner you take.

There is no sign up ahead to tell you where you are. One is dwarfed by this huge rock face which rises up to 300m high on either side of the valley . As a result of flash flooding, the road was washed away. I'm in awe of such beauty. I cannot stay longer than required and I leave. On my return route I meet a fellow cyclist and we have a short conversation before we are on our way. I head for my next destination Tinjdad.

I have 50km to go and once again the plains open. Head down and off I go. Nothing much to report. I stop and take pics of camels. Yes camels and of course it attracts the hearders shouting in the distance about money..... any oportunity for a quick buck when it suits them.

Tinjdad appears and the town is just that, a boring little town. Unfortunately I have to bunk here for the night.

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Ouarzazate to Skoura



My day started well. Can you believe it rained really hard! The next morning by the time I left there was no sign of any rain in sight. From El Kelaan gmone to Boumaine Dades its 24km before the road forks right going to Dades Gorges 27km and right to Tineghir 50km away. The palm valley between El Kelaa and Boumaine is extremely fertile and lots of olives grow in this area. There are also mint, dates, wheat, cashews and roses. Vegetables are grown too but on a smaller scale. The towns along the first 24km of my route are quite compact and squeezed in between the river flood plain(dry) and the mountain. Boumaine, situated right at the fork, is perched just above the valley. This town is very laid back and is the gateway to the Dades Gorges. Lots of tourist and guides (Berbers) who lead people on excursion and walks.

My route further takes me on a flat plain and the lunar landscapes. It's still hot as hell but fairly cool during early morning. The landscape becomes one big blur as I push myself over the plain. In the distance with 6km to go, the town appears like a mirage and before long I stop at the first available cafe that is open and I have a coke and coffee. After doing some enquiries of where to stay, I'm no more the wiser when I leave because my French is not good. Not to worry, I'll find some thing soon and I do. No, not another Hotel Du Atlas but a Timbuktu. My choices are just so Ama_zing.

Ramadaan

Let me give you a timeline of typical day during Ramadaan. The day starts at 10h00 depending where you are. By 11h00 some shops are still not open for business. At 13h00 all shops close except those attached to the tourist industry and serious about making money. At 16h00 shops try to open. By 17h00 they are in full swing. At 18h15 they close for breakfast and by 20h30 they are in full swing until 01h00 to 02h00. So you have to be tuned in. I was reduced to one full meal a day . Hopefully it improves after Eid.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Taddert to Ouarzazate

Today was just as tough if not tougher than yesterday. I am hoping the route gets better. Taddart to Quarzazate held it's own with lots and lots of surprises. After a goods night sleep I was ready to take on the day. The road from Taddert is in good condition considering all the trucks and buses that use it every day and as you know during winter the roads are closed due to snow. These towns have snow ploughs! The Atlas mountain is very high and the pass itself goes up to 2800m if not higher in certain places. My goal was to get over tizi N' Tichka (2260m high). The morning started out cool as usual and as the road started to climb out of the hamlet it started getting just a little colder. I new that sooner or later I was going to be pouring sweat as the road snaked ahead with lots of switchbacks. This time of morning there are plenty of trucks and buses making their way up the pass. It becomes a bit hair raising at times with a couple of near misses and lots of swearing. There are patient people who hoot in acknowledgement as they go by . Eventually I get to the top of the pass or what I considered to be the top. Another turn and the road climbs again and again. Suddenly, I'm heading down at one hell of a speed. The weather turns out to be hot but I'm lucky I have head wind which I cope with nicely. It keeps me cool. The turn to Ait ben Haddon appears and an extra 9km to the heritage site and 9km back. The visit was every bit worth it.Back on the main road again and I have 21km to go before Quarzazate appears. I can't wait to get off my seat it is really starting to hurt. It was expected so I should not complain. I am sleeping in the Royal Hotel tonight, nogal.

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Marrakech to Taddert

I left Marrakech and headed for the hamlet, Taddert. The ride out of the city was pleasant and cool in the morning. I left just after 6h30 to give the heavy traffic a big miss. This was a wise decision because, as the day progressed, it became very hot and after about two hours into my journey the gentle incline started. Great I thought ,not so bad after all. This continued for about an hour before the next level made its vicious appearance. Imagine what that felt like! I kept hearing Sandy's voice ringing in my ears, " I don't think he is fit enough". I ploughed on with my journey fighting all the way. I must admit the views are very stark but beautiful. I arrived in Taddert just after two in the afternoon and stopped at a little inn where the guys were braaing outside. The owner, Chez Ahmed, attended to me and explained in broken English which was fine. I decided to go for the cutlet, small salad, bread and mint tea which was very refreshing. The other guests were mainly French. I ate with my fingers with gusto just to be uncivilised with my audience looking on in silence. I enjoyed that. My feelings towards the French have not changed. After a good meal I asked Ahmed if he new of a place where I could sleep for the night. He suggested the youth centre which doubles as a hostel. The money that is collected goes towards the upkeep. After my doss, I took a walk around. The hamlet is linear strung along the N9, the gateway to the Atlas mountains. I met Ahmed again in the street and he kindly invited me for supper. I felt really honoured. The meal consisted of two kinds of soup, a lamb tangine which was really kwaai, mint tea and bread. There were four others sitting around the table. We chatted for a short while afterwards. When Ahmed took leave to pray, I returned to my room to sleep. What a good sleep it was!

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Arrival in Marrakech

A teaspoon of a hiccup: my bicycle arrived in Casablanca but not my panniers! Have to spend an extra day in Marrakech now. Bought a sim card for my cellphone. Apparently it's a lot cheaper to phone from Morocco to South Africa. Morocco is 2 hours behind S.A.
Had some decent food today. A proper chicken sandwich and freshly squeezed orange juice to die for!. The juice is only 3dh. That's about R3.00. Marrakech is a bustling city, a thoroughfare for traffic heading south over the Atlas mountains. It's bloody hot during the day! Lots to see and smell. The mint urine smell is very popular.
Loads of English and French tourists on organised tours. The lingua franca is both French and Arabic. Computer keyboards take getting used to.

I like the fact that I blend in with my dark skin and don't get hassled by touts even when I take out my camera. Of course the locals are curious and try to chat in Arabic to me. They are visibly surprised when they find out that I am a foreigner.

Well, have to fix up my bike now for the start of my first cycle day tomorrow. Wish me luck.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Morocco Trip Itinerary


Thank you all for your comments and well wishes! I feel like a celebrity! I depart Cape Town today (Thursday) flying Emirates Air Line directly to Dubai which will take 12hours and arrive there early tomorrow morning. From Dubai I fly to Casablanca which will take me another 4 hours. From Mohamed V Airport in Casablanca I catch a train to the main railway station in the city called Casa Voyageurs. All trains either depart or pass through the main central station which connects all the major cities in Morocco. Others are connected by means of a bus transport system. I take the train to Marrakech arriving there in the evening. I will spend 2 days in Marrakech. My actual cycle starts out from Marrakech.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Three days before South Africa departure

It is 3 days before I depart for Morocco and the rush is on to have everything in order - my passport + visa; my emergency medical kit; my solar-powered bag (oops! don't have one -hope Moroccan dorpies have adequate electricity supply); my emergency rations (it is Ramadaan right now); etc.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Cycling, hiking and photography

I am an avid cyclist, hiker and photographer. For longer than I can remember I have commuted to work by bicycle because it’s a wonderful form of exercise and because I am passionate about this sport. When I am not cycling I enjoy mountain hiking. I have hiked extensively in some of the most beautiful parts of South Africa, my favourites being the Otter trail, Whale trail, Tsitsikama trail and Blyde River Canyon.


A few years ago I had the pleasure of travelling to Tanzania and climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. In 2004/5 I backpacked through Peru and hiked the Inca trail to Machu Picchu. This was not only a wonderful experience but also a great personal achievement for me. I took some very special photographs of my experiences. See the adjacent slide show of Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador.

I have completed fourteen Cape Argus Cycle Tours as a Category C entrant, and eight Double Century Cycle Tours. The latter is a 206km long race cycled in teams of 8-12 riders, with the aid of support vehicles.

In March - April 2003, I completed a solo cycle tour across the length and breadth of Cuba. It was a fascinating experience and gave me many wonderful photographic opportunities. The trip was truly inspirational. Upon my return to Cape Town I gave a number of slide shows to share my experiences with fellow South Africans. My cycle through Cuba afforded me an intimate view of the people and the landscape. See adjacent slide
show of Cuba.